Cutting the fabric:
Front and back bodice pieces are cut on a straight grain. Place paper pattern on fabric, aligning the fold of the fabric and center line of the bodice piece. Skirt is also placed on fold, fabric permitting. If, however, fabric is not wide enough, no big deal, you can always make a two-seam skirt, cutting two equal pieces. Bodice lining is cut exactly as the main fabric.
Sewing the skirt with one piece of fabric, the seam can be placed at the back or on the left side, depending on your design and desire.
Continue reading Tie-up shoulders sundress sewing instructions.
T-Shirt dress is very easy to make and comfortable to wear. There are just a few points you need to remember to make a professional looking garment. Before laying your pattern out you should determine if the fabric is one way (direction which the print/pattern/sheen/texture runs) or two ways. If the fabric looks or feels differently in both directions your main pattern pieces will all have to face the same way. Don’t forget to match the stripes, if your fabric has them.
Continue reading Casual T-Shirt dress with drawstring waist and pockets. Step-by-step instructions.
This cute tunic dress is very simple to make. Absence of a complex details or zippers makes it suitable for novice seamstresses. Contrasting ribbons and bows give rhythmic harmony.
There are three main types of puffed sleeves that are very simple to draft from the basic sleeve pattern. The idea is to create enough extra fabric for gathering, which means to “stretch” the pattern in places were the ruffling will accrue. The “stretching” can be done along the head and hem of a sleeve, but never in the underarm area.
The process itself is not complicated. Start with a paper pattern of a sleeve. Mark the middle third of your pattern with parallel lines 3-4cm apart, cut and open out the pieces. The fuller the sleeve you are after the further you spread the parts. Traditionally it cannot be made more then 5cm. For fuller sleeve cut the strips narrower. In some old pattern making books you can find the pictures of a puffed sleeve draft looking like a fan with the strips cut as narrow as 1cm.
Continue reading Three ways to draft a puffed sleeves pattern.
Bias binding is a widely utilized in all sorts of sewing projects. Its uses are far wider then just a hem finish. It can have decorative as well as functional purpose in a garment. Though the craft shops have a wide variety of ready-made bias tapes, they often are the wrong shade for the project, or not stocked in a particular width. Hence is a necessity to make your own. Luckily it is not hard to produce at home and gives your more control over the design. It is a useful technique to know either you a dressmaker or a quilter.
Bias binding making sequence:
- Iron the piece of fabric you are going to make the bias tape with.
- Spread it flat in one layer. Do not allow it to hang over the working surface to avoid stretching.
- Mark the strips of a desired width. Remember that fabric cut on bias stretches significantly when steamed, so make sufficient allowance.
- Cut. Quilters can put a rotary cutter and a cutting mat to use to speed up the process.
- Continue reading How to make a bias binding.
Frills and ruffles are very popular embellishments in dressmaking. There are quite a few methods to gather fabric, but double basting method is the universal one. Its main advantage is that it can be used with any fabric, be it knitted or woven and it is essentially the same done by hand or sewing machine. The beauty of the double basting method is the neatness of the result, it produces even and tidy ruffles and works equally well on straight or circular pieces.
Depending on the design, fabric can be cut on straight, cross-grain or on bias. Bias method is favored when the ruffle will be finished with the lettuce edge, and requires a fair bit of stretching.
Continue reading Perfect way to gather fabric – double basting method.
T-Shirt neck, casual dress or pj’s top, this is one useful techniques to have in your skill library. There are quite a few ways to finish a raw edge of knitted fabric. Depending on you equipment and experience your can go with an overlock, top stitcher or use just a sewing machine.
Cutting your rib trim band, go slightly shorter then a neck opening. How much shorter will depend on the stretch of your fabric and design. This is probably the trickiest part of the whole process. Make the neckband too long and the neckline will look overstretched and untidy. Too small neckband will pull and distort the entire garment out of shape. Finished neckband should lay flat and look like an integral part of the T-shirt. There is no universal advice as each fabric combination is slightly different. You can try to pin the neck band in place to get the idea of an optimal length and make adjustments accordingly.
Continue reading Binding the T-Shirt neck with a rib trim.
To make curved seams lie flat when stitched they need to be treated in a special way and it differs for concave and convex curves.
For concave (inward) arch slit seam allowance 3/4 way to the stitching line. It will let the fabric to spread without pulling and tagging.
Continue reading How to make a perfectly smooth curved seams.
Sewing circle skirt is not a time consuming project, this makes it a popular choice for home seamstress. There is only four techniques you have to be familiar with: how to sew a curved hem, insert a zipper, attach a waistband and cut a buttonhole.
1. Cutting circle skirt.
- Cutting a circle skirt can be done in one, two or three pieces, depending on the design and fabric width. When fabric is wide enough it is done in one piece. Since there are no seams you will have to use a welt or exposed zipper method.
Continue reading Sewing instructions for classic circle skirt.
There are usually more ways then one to do things. Centered zipper is not an exclusion. If with the fist method the top stitching played both utilitarian and decorative roles, in this method there is a separate stitch for each function.
Right sides together sew the seam leaving the zipper opening unstitched.
Continue reading Centered zipper step-by-step. Method 2