Cutting the fabric:
Front and back bodice pieces are cut on a straight grain. Place paper pattern on fabric, aligning the fold of the fabric and center line of the bodice piece. Skirt is also placed on fold, fabric permitting. If, however, fabric is not wide enough, no big deal, you can always make a two-seam skirt, cutting two equal pieces. Bodice lining is cut exactly as the main fabric.
Sewing the skirt with one piece of fabric, the seam can be placed at the back or on the left side, depending on your design and desire.
Continue reading Tie-up shoulders sundress sewing instructions.
This T-shirt dress features a draw string waist and pockets. Designed for a jersey fabric it has comfy casual look.
Light knitted fabrics are very comfortable to wear, but sewing them differs greatly from the woven ones. Distinct way of stretching and fraying means they have to be treated differently. From designing through to cutting and assembling your garment there are several particularities to keep in mind:
- Garment made of stretch fabric doesn’t need as much moving ease as the one made of a woven cloth. It hugs body curves much better due to its elastic quality;
- Seam line should be almost as stretchy as the garment itself. Overlock is the best option;
- To avoid tiny holes and runs use ball-point needles
Cotton jersey or interlock.
Step-by-step sewing instructions
Dress with a frilly top is not very complicated to make. Read instructions fully before you begin.
Laying out the pattern will depend on the width of your fabric. Here is one suggestion: Continue reading Dress with a frilly top detailed sewing instructions.
T-Shirt dress is very easy to make and comfortable to wear. There are just a few points you need to remember to make a professional looking garment. Before laying your pattern out you should determine if the fabric is one way (direction which the print/pattern/sheen/texture runs) or two ways. If the fabric looks or feels differently in both directions your main pattern pieces will all have to face the same way. Don’t forget to match the stripes, if your fabric has them.
Continue reading Casual T-Shirt dress with drawstring waist and pockets. Step-by-step instructions.
The keyhole neckline opening can be used as an embellishment of the garment or as a utility feature to widen the neckline or the hem of a sleeve for added functionality.
There are several methods the keyhole neckline can be finished with :
- bias binding
Today I will show how to face the keyhole neckline at the back of the garment.
Facing is drafted as normal two piece neck facing is typically done, with enough extra fabric to accommodate the opening. The one important point is not to cut out the opening at this stage, just mark it clearly. This way the facing remains stable and wont distort under presser foot of your machine. Depending on the garment design and fabric thickness the interfacing might be a good idea.
Bias binding is a widely utilized in all sorts of sewing projects. Its uses are far wider then just a hem finish. It can have decorative as well as functional purpose in a garment. Though the craft shops have a wide variety of ready-made bias tapes, they often are the wrong shade for the project, or not stocked in a particular width. Hence is a necessity to make your own. Luckily it is not hard to produce at home and gives your more control over the design. It is a useful technique to know either you a dressmaker or a quilter.
Bias binding making sequence:
- Iron the piece of fabric you are going to make the bias tape with.
- Spread it flat in one layer. Do not allow it to hang over the working surface to avoid stretching.
- Mark the strips of a desired width. Remember that fabric cut on bias stretches significantly when steamed, so make sufficient allowance.
- Cut. Quilters can put a rotary cutter and a cutting mat to use to speed up the process.
- Continue reading How to make a bias binding.
No matter what equipment you’ve got there are techniques that allows you to make a nice rib trim finish for your jersey garment. Here are the six examples using various equipment.
Sewing Machine. Straight stitch.
Use a rib trim as a bias binding. Baste the edges in , then fold it in half, baste to the garment, making sure it has the same width both on the right and on the wrong side. Stitch in place. Advantage of this method is that it looks identical from the right side and from the wrong one.
Continue reading How to finish a raw edge of knitted fabric with rib trim. 6 common techniques.
Frills and ruffles are very popular embellishments in dressmaking. There are quite a few methods to gather fabric, but double basting method is the universal one. Its main advantage is that it can be used with any fabric, be it knitted or woven and it is essentially the same done by hand or sewing machine. The beauty of the double basting method is the neatness of the result, it produces even and tidy ruffles and works equally well on straight or circular pieces.
Depending on the design, fabric can be cut on straight, cross-grain or on bias. Bias method is favored when the ruffle will be finished with the lettuce edge, and requires a fair bit of stretching.
Continue reading Perfect way to gather fabric – double basting method.
T-Shirt neck, casual dress or pj’s top, this is one useful techniques to have in your skill library. There are quite a few ways to finish a raw edge of knitted fabric. Depending on you equipment and experience your can go with an overlock, top stitcher or use just a sewing machine.
Cutting your rib trim band, go slightly shorter then a neck opening. How much shorter will depend on the stretch of your fabric and design. This is probably the trickiest part of the whole process. Make the neckband too long and the neckline will look overstretched and untidy. Too small neckband will pull and distort the entire garment out of shape. Finished neckband should lay flat and look like an integral part of the T-shirt. There is no universal advice as each fabric combination is slightly different. You can try to pin the neck band in place to get the idea of an optimal length and make adjustments accordingly.
Continue reading Binding the T-Shirt neck with a rib trim.
To make curved seams lie flat when stitched they need to be treated in a special way and it differs for concave and convex curves.
For concave (inward) arch slit seam allowance 3/4 way to the stitching line. It will let the fabric to spread without pulling and tagging.
Continue reading How to make a perfectly smooth curved seams.